Lapsang Souchong Duck Breast

Duck has a reputation for being oily, and if it’s not prepared correctly then that’s true. But the fat is fairly easy to manage if you’re cooking duck breasts, and in the end you’re rewarded with a succulent dinner that’s loaded with rich flavor and is unparalleled in its tenderness.

The first step to prepare duck breast is to cut shallow cross hatches through the skin. This will allow the fat to render, or seep out, from the score marks. If you want most of the fat to render out, cut deeper into the fat without hitting the meat. If you want to leave a crescent of fat, keep the slices shallow, just at the surface. How will you know if you’re making contact with the meat? Texture. Fat is soft and pillowy and falls away from the knife as you slice. If you hit any resistance, you’re at the meat and need to raise the knife a little.

To render the fat out most effectively, cook your duck skin-side down. Render it slowly to give the fat time to soften and prevent the skin from crisping up too quickly. Turn the duck breasts skin-side up in the pan when the skin is beautifully crisp and mahogany brown. Put them in the oven for five minutes to finish cooking. Once they’re done, move them to a plate to rest for ten minutes. It’s important to rest the duck breasts on something other than the cooking pan, so residual heat doesn’t cook them more than you want and so the breasts don’t reabsorb the fat that’s been rendered.

Serve this with a cherry-wine or cranberry maple sauce, or nestle it on top of wild rice for a meal that’s rustic, elegant, and surprisingly easy to make.