Salt, to paraphrase food historian Mark Kurlansky, is the only rock we eat, and something we would (literally!) die without. This naturally-occurring mineral, abundant in the sea or mined from the earth, is not just for the tabletop shaker. Salt contains innate properties that are often related to the shape and size of the crystals; kosher salt is the right size to extract moisture from meat, while flaked salts dissolve slowly and provide subtle flavor. Knowing when and how to apply salt can change a good meal into a great one. Salt can be found clinging to the ore it’s been mined from, enriched by the minerals in the sea water it’s farmed from, or combined with a wide array of seasonings from garlic to smoke. Use these salts for their special qualities that bring out the best in food and really make a meal pop.